Top rope auto belay accident reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Top rope auto belay accident reddit. Understand the checks, do them every time, always check each others belay setup and knots and then fall on the rope a few times at lowish level. If you have any friends able to belay with consideration of your condition, I think that would definitely help a lot. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. If he can't control a top rope fall while taking in slack then he needs to be a more attentive belayer. Building an outdoor climbing wall. This way you cannot start climbing without clipping since the tarp blocks the starting holds when the auto belay is clipped onto the ring. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. There's nothing wrong with you. The longer the fall, the higher the potential for serious injury or death. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. Yep, that would be rude. When the auto belay is my partner, I do double checks with the auto belay before I leave the ground just as I would with a human partner. Like you, they also had a reason for picking the auto-belay over the available top rope climbs, and your reason is no more important than whatever theirs is. Your gym should definitely have belay gates, can not believe they don't, it's such a basic safety feature. Yes we have checked everything but then I have felt it and it is actually all right. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. And unfortunately did not double check his partner, the auto belay. We can probably learn just as much from the mistakes of the average climber as the expertise of a pro climber :) Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for Is your purpose to belay someone free-climbing in a tree? In that case, I’d go with an actual belay device like a Petzl GriGri or Black Diamond ATC. Yes this exactly. She broke both femurs and her hips. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… AFAIK (correction: the statement in this sentence is wrong, see aplubsi's relpy) there has never been a single auto belay accident caused by failure of the auto belay device. Then go higher. Luckily no major injuries. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. That might be the case here. Reply reply testlipidesmu92 • Seeing auto-belay sections closed is a sign of good safety practice. don't use the belay loop with a rope. If you're outdoors and your belayer weighs significantly less than you have them tie off to a tree or boulder or place a piece of gear protecting upward motion. You unclip it, and tie it to yourself If you don't clip it to yourself, it reels to the top, you look like an idiot. What are auto belays Auto Belay Reddit In september, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, vertical world. I witnessed that accident and that particular failure of the shunt was complete and disastrous. TRUBLUE Auto Belay - Beware. IMO, this is best practice. Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. Since I'm by myself, I was wondering other than bouldering, where can I go that has a few auto-belays for me. However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. Think about how you could build in redundancy (at your anchor, with your rope, with the way (s) you’re connected to the rope). Similarly, harness failure (assuming he wasn't improperly attached to an unrated gear loop or something) is The Grigri is a more versatile device. We set and forerun on the rope and return the auto-belay to the bottom when the route is completely finished. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is ATC makes it easier to pay out a bit of rope when your climber is falling, can't really do that on the GriGri, as you have to hold the auto-blocking part down. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? 274 votes, 101 comments. This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. , trusted the auto belay and decked. Over and over until you start to trust the gear, systems and belay. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. Even though she held the rope more than a couple of fist lengths from the belay device, her hand was dragged and jammed between the belay device and the rope. She was a foot or two above the last clip and was at the anchor after this final move. My belayer opened the break on a thin rope and the rope burned his hands, he just completely let go of everything; it locked and I was traumatized but it worked out. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. So I had a semi accident with my GF whem she belayed me on toprope and we took a controlled fall, nothing more than what you would expect on a lead climb. Reply reply More replies roland8727 • Overly Enthusiastic Belaying? Anyone have thoughts on belaying that might be helping too much with a climb? I've been climbing (mostly indoor top rope) for about two months, but I don't have a steady belay partner or group so I'm mostly on autobelay. God damn it was so much fun. I don't know the statistics, but I'd wager that lowering/rappelling accidents are more common, or more frequently serious/fatal. The auto belay was allegedly found intact and at the top. My gym removed all the auto belays due to accidents (people forgetting to clip in). I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. If you do clip it to your belay loop, you climb, it reels up, you come back down safely. So, keep that in mind. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. In trad nearly half of all accidents were gear failure. ). At my university gym, one of the wall employees was getting some late night crag action on an autobelay. I know you're being flippant, but it's important to highlight that the accident happened while lowering. It is completely safe for catching falls, but bonking the other climber isn't that pleasant. If cable means some cable inside the mechanics of the auto-belay device, then it seems like something that would be at the fault of the auto-belay and it could be understandable how this went unnoticed by the employees of the gym, although it still should have been caught in the inspection in February. This guy 100% completely forgot to clip in. [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. ) We send the auto-belay up and set up a rope in the same lane when setting auto-belay routes. Every time I'm belayed by a human, it feels like cheating. Have him use an auto-locking belay device such as a Petzl GriGri and make sure he's anchoring in the gym. P. Bizarre it’s not standard Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. I hope this post isn't too redundant. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Do any of the gyms within an hour of sac have auto belay or am I forced to talk to strangers? The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. My safety check for autobelaying is checking that my carabiner is locked and attached correctly to my harness, taking a look at the top of the route and making sure there’s nothing visually wrong with the autobelay and making sure there’s tension on the rope. Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. My question is, how can I improve my I use an auto locker for my belay device because it is just an extra layer of safety. e. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. S. , the Petzl attaché has a pear Like purpose just letting go of the wall falling a few times over and learning to trust the ropes and the knots and my belay partner. The auto-belay system has the cord clipped at an anchor point on the ground. Oct 25, 2021 · On September 3, a 73-year-old man was seriously injured at Makak Climbing Arena in Warsaw, Poland, falling 30 feet after his autobelay line broke. When he looked up the webbing was ejecting out of the device in front of him. Climbers should be aware that materials act strangely under high loads. 7K votes, 163 comments. And yes we are scared of falling. Surprised to see anchor failure be the most common top rope cause of accidents, with belay failure way lower down. Tie it in an MMO or instantly lower someone if you need. Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. My instructor said to just send it and Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). 1. Don’t be Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. Local gym in my area uses these auto belay systems, in the past two weeks they've failed 3 times. Although some people that only use a single rope like to use them for top rope, single rope lead belay, and single rope top belay, and also carry an ATC belay device with a prusik cord for a backup friction knot for double rope rappelling. Auto belay will definitely continue to improve your top rope climbing if you can't go with your partner so just go for it. Also makes you clip in with two opposed carabiners instead of tie in and various other weirdness. Just wondering what everyone else’s If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. If you're worried about it maybe ask what the auto belays are rated for. Not that I am aware of which auto belay it was but a friend was just recently telling me of a time where he was using an auto belay and once at the top of the route he no longer felt the distinctive tug of the auto belay. Backup knots aren't good enough, use a secondary device. I know about the bouldering spots around but find top rope more fun. Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). Feb 8, 2024 · This is a climbing accident where the injured forgot to attach himself to a belay. You can do repeats if no one's waiting. Is it possible to climb an auto belay wall by top roping or lead? In my experience, either the AB cord would get in the way or there wouldn't be any top anchor for top rope climbing, as the auto belay would be there. An auto belay is much more dependable that a human belay, but without a partner safety check, they are not accident-proof. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. There was a bad (but not fatal) accident in my favorite top rope gym the other day and it's been announced that the gym will… My friend always tries to stick to auto belay routes that are next to regular top ropes so that he can hold the top rope on the way down. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The edelrid ohm is designed for lead climbing (it clips into the first bolt), but you could use it for top rope as well, if you route the belayers end through it and put it into the first bolt as you climb past it. And that’s why I signed up for the class, to help desensitize myself to heights But auto belay? Fuckin awful. Jan 15, 2024 · However, the most serious incidents reported in indoor climbing gyms — death, becoming paralyzed, and other severe forms of bodily harm — tend to happen on ropes and auto-belays. Always check your knot, or your clip in. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. We’ve consulted lawyers, insurance companies, other gym owners, reviewed accident data, evaluated risk management practices, and examined our values. But the people you meet bouldering will be the same people that will belay for you on top rope. So i have been top roping outside since 2023 and usually go 1-3 times a month with my partner who is more advanced than me, however i've always been very scared to try moves higher up and i take a very long time reaching the top. The auto belay provides a controlled descent using magnets, centrifugal force, or hydraulics as a braking mechanism. With the 'newer' (quite old, still) models of auto belays, there's virtually zero maintenance required, even. After stopping things right away and getting his climber to climb the few feet back to the ground I asked him what he was doing. Sep 6, 2023 · Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay. It’s common practice to let go at the very top and let the auto-belay machine repel you safely back down. Statistically almost all auto belay accidents are from people forgetting to clip in. Thanks for any info! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jan 24, 2023 · Auto belays are great for climbing roped walls without a partner and for training endurance or doing laps on climbs, as you don't need a human belayer. In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). End of rope slipping out of belay device. One caused a ground fall from ~25 feet up, one instance was caught and after a couple tugs the system caught and the climber was able to be safely lowered and the third instance resulted in a down climb to safety. Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). and metal work can go through the belay loop. He still hates it and realizes he'd burn the shit out of his hands if the auto belay were to fail and he attempted to catch himself, but it helps mentally even just a tiny bit. The device tends to short-rope you for the first three quickdraws as a matter of safety but works pretty well after. She couldnt release her hand, so I had to quickly climb up the wall again to It was a locker on the gym auto-belay, just didn’t get it fully through the loop (my fault) one time and semi-closed on the loop itself causing the abrasion. Last night I was leading and was hanging when i looked over at another climber friend about to reach for the finishing move on a fifty foot wall. IF I was to clip in with two carabiners for toproping it would be on the belay loop, not the rope tie in points. Lots of negative comments about auto belays. At least that way they might feel more confident knowing they have a top rope backup. I wasn’t a huge fan. There is no case where you can not not be tied in. The rope is under tension and constantly wants to go up, so it will follow you as you climb. 310 votes, 227 comments. I went back to climbing a month after my injury, pre-surgery, and had a couple of ultra painful moments doing very innocuous toe and heel hooks on top rope, that I didn’t think would be an issue. I got dropped about 15 feet on top rope with a GriGri, but before I decked it did activated. Otherwise, go up/down once and hand off to the next person and wait your turn. He just stood there looking confused and his partner piped up to explain that ‘he’s only climbed outside and we only lead so he doesn’t know how to top rope belay’. I'd be interested to see some numbers on auto belays versus bouldering accidents. Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. At a climbing gym like this, you would be clipped into an auto belay. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. I thought I’d like it more than w/ a partner but nope. Auto belay for climbing newbs? Very sporadic climber here. The elastic cord keeps the devices from interfering with each other and the set up works great. The climber, Michael Vandivere, sustained a 30-foot fall and subsequently suffered a number of severe injuries, including 12 pelvic fractures, a traumatic brain injury, lung injuries, bladder But also search more “top rope solo” on here and dig a little deeper. She's okay now but our gym is closed all year because of it. It helps me a lot to make a practice fall 2 meters into the climb. I am grateful for her training. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. Our head instructor had a friend of hers die from a belay accident many years ago and she absolutely took belaying as serious as she could and made sure every student worker she trained knew how to belay effectively and safely regardless of the conditions outdoors. I definitely have improved from the first time i top roped since now i can finish all the climbs i try that are within my level and sometimes i can finish a climb It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. We came to the decision to remove auto belays. NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. Insane first time gym climber free solos to top of roped wall and brags on Insta about getting yelled at by staff for almost dying If cable means some cable inside the mechanics of the auto-belay device, then it seems like something that would be at the fault of the auto-belay and it could be understandable how this went unnoticed by the employees of the gym, although it still should have been caught in the inspection in February. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. It takes all of ten seconds. When I climb all the way up (top rope) and it's time to let go, I realize that I am 15+ meters up and this is the first time that the rope, my knots and the belay are tested. I check it anyway, but if i forgot, i would want an auto locker. I'm very paranoid about belaying accidents, and would like to find a device that can be used as a backup for a belay, to lock on the rope if the primary belay device fails and sets the rope free (whether due to user error, or being knocked unconscious due to rockfall etc. Hit the the top of the wall at 30 ft. ) it's a pretty light belay device. There's a world of difference in terms of how 'safe' one might feel on top rope depending on how the belayer handles the rope. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking Jun 21, 2021 · The innocent lapses in attention that lead to auto-belay accidents are also to blame for top-rope and lead climbers who forget to finish their tie-in knots—mistakes with similarly dire consequences. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t 103 votes, 190 comments. And don't hop on an autobelay if someone is already top-roping the immediately adjacent rope unless they are really adequately spaced apart. After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. 9 range, one 5. . The taller the wall, the longer the fall. You could either lower them slowly so they get a feel of the auto belay or just let go of your brake hands and let the auto belay take them so they feel the full motion of the auto belay. Use a DDRT set up and a cambium saver to mitigate friction. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. You can see the rope leading up to it right at hip level. I tried to come up with a better analogy, but the best I could do is: It's like riding a tandem bike by yourself and only having control of the front brakes. However, if the staff said there was an accident, it suggests they weren't closing the stations regularly enough. Only things I can think of really! So that limits them, as they are not an all in one belay device. Then the auto belay manufacturer couldn't prove that a problem with their device creating too much slack (which they knew about) didn't contribute to the fall (assumption being that with less force the bad clip possibly could have held). How is it possible to go up without having a rope attached to you? Wouldn't you notice it? Whenever I go on the autobelay I check that I'm still attached in the beginning, at least once on the way up and Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. Top rope falls have very low forces and an attentive belayer should have no problem catching a fall pretty much no matter what. There's an auto belay in the video, but so inconspicuous you may have missed it. On top rope. When auto-belays share space with other climbing terrain, you not only have gates that are easy to climb around, you have climbers that are used to climbing around them. If your belayer primarily topropes indoors, those are almost always heavy and slow/thick ropes. Climb easy walls up to highball boulder height and jump off. And wow do I fuckin hate it It did it’s job tho 😭 after the class I was no where near as scared at committing to more difficult moves higher up on the bouldering wall as I usually am. Other than that, I'll just echo the advice to belay as tight as you can any time the climber is effectively on top rope, especially for up to 3 bolts or even 1/3 or 1/2 up the route. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing     Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing Honestly, pretty much everything! In lead belaying you're paying out rope (giving slack) while in top rope you're always taking in slack. My gym uses static rope for certain top rope routes. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. 541 votes, 190 comments. The base is attached to the bottom of the wall and the top has a ring where you clip the auto belay. Most of these are falls from the top of the wall due to failure to clip in, making them Most of these auto-belay accidents have been people who don't tie in or don't tie in correctly. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. It's missing a key safety feature. Apparently broke legI just learned why the auto belay was attached to a big piece of canvas that blocked the bottom of the climb. Reply reply Ninja-Sneaky • For perspective, a friend that was very fit and trained in climbing did break an arm from just a 3 meters fall Reply reply Red__system • Reply reply More replies ps-djon • Reply reply dmurrieta72 • Reply Thanks for posting. Oct 29, 2018 · Most of the injuries in lead and top-rope climbing were due to belaying mistakes at 10 cases out of 23 lead/top rope climbing accidents logged. i didn't buy it for that purpose or anything, but i had some twisters and some autolockers and i put the twisters on my slings for going in direct and used autos for belaying. At a deadly height. Really helped me understand that I was actually safe. It is an autobelay failure because the autobelay doesn't have a partner check like a traditional belay system. 8 - 5. My gym has several large bouldering areas. Rappelling involves cleaning the anchor then using a personal belay device (commonly an ATC, grigri or other) to rappel/abseil back down to the base of the climb. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. I would start at the bottom of the wall and just climb up a little and then let go. I tie my ascended to the belay loop when solo toproping. Falls are cool, similar to those you would experience with a worried belayer. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. just like the climber unfortunately did. The bells in your head don't go off when you climb around an auto-belay gate if you do that all the time on lead on the same wall. That usually implies that he clipped it into something weak like his belt loop or it was incompletely clipped to his harness and came off. I once stopped a guy that clipped into the top rope rather than the auto-belay, the route had both. Slam a carabiner on the anchor, put the rope through it and pull, quick flip of the rope and your partner is on belay, another flip and they're on a clove. Sep 21, 2023 · Seattle’s Vertical World and Colorado-based manufacturer C3, which produces Perfect Descent auto belays, have settled in a lawsuit following a severe climbing accident that occurred on August 1, 2019. If the belay loop is too strong to fail, why do we tie in to two separate points on the harness when we climb while the other end of the rope is secured to a single point? Indoor top-rope auto-belay in Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe? Hi all I'll be visiting Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during the summer, and I'd like to visit a few indoor gyms to work off all the food I'll be eating. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. Reply reply More repliesMore replies RedDirtNurse • Reply reply SkiMonkey98 • the ‘right’ way to belay I totally agree it's weird to ban Grigris, but you should also 100% be using the 'right' belay technique with your brake hand constantly on the rope, if only to build good habits for when you inevitably end up using an ATC for whatever reason Reply reply thefiendhitman • 1. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!) These accidents are so common - a woman fell in our gym as well just a couple of weeks ago due to failing to clip in (luckily only minor injuries), and I really struggle to understand it. She slipped and felland kept falling. However, I am looking to get I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. They put a triangular tarp about 4 ft high. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. 20 votes, 50 comments. Based on both rumor and inference from the messaging, this looks like a fixed-gear failure, and no part of that system should fail catastrophically if maintained correctly. I work at a gym and I believe our auto belays are rated for up to 300lbs. Not sure why. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. It allows you to do double rope rappels that are auto (assisted)locking (though it is not as smooth as rappelling with an atc and it can be tiring if your ropes are big, you weigh a lot, or you are doing a free hanging rappel with two ropes as there is a lot of weight on the device trying to lock it. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Overall no helmet was a significant portion of all climbing accidents, nearly as much as rap errors. I know a couple, but they can vary from region to region. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. A fall on autobelay sometimes incurs some unintentional swing, and you don't want to knock someone else off their route. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Top Rope has the lowest risk of injury out of any of the climbing disciplines, *with a competent belayer. In my experience, the boulder guys like top roping too, but are in the same situation as you, and need a partner. 237 votes, 198 comments. One time my best friend was stuck at the top because of her fear of the auto belay. They take up and give slack more dynamically. I I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. If a auto breaking belay device (like Gri-Gri) is being used and properly, even more so. Reply reply OhHiHowIzYou • Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I was thinking it has a bit more of a fall before the device starts to lowers you down. Several gyms in the United States have removed their autobelays in light of the accidents, such as Edgeworks Climbing+Fitness in Washington. The home of Climbing on reddit. Climbers usually race up the holds as fast as they can , touch a sensor at the end and push off the wall, while the auto-belay slowly lowers them. I thought the same thing and I realised it was kinda silly, it's the same for bouldering no one will judge you if you're a beginner, just be aware how many auto belay there are because other people will also use the auto belay. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. These are from Guadalajara, Mexico Quick-draws : anillas jugs - cazuelas, cantos (I think Canto is used in Spain as well) mantle - mancle auto belay - yo-yo lead climb - puntear belay - asegurar rope, harness - cuerda, harnés route - ruta / linea one "try" (for a route/boulder problem) - "un pegue" boulder - bulder sport climb Any reports of auto belay accidents are exactly what happened to you, they don't fail, just humans forget to clip while distracted. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. I tie in to the tie-in loops when leading or toproping. Sep 23, 2016 · It defies logic, but experienced climbers continue to simply not attach themselves to the auto belay device, climb to the top of the wall, lean back and fall to the ground. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. He was training on a hard route, fell off about 5m and the auto belay clip came straight off and pulled up to the top while he fell to the bottom. Old gym in MA had tons of auto belays. The highest certified guy who is my instructor told me they have more accidents in the bouldering areas then they do with auto-belay and other "standard" climbing accidents combined. If you are doing top rope or lead, make sure you go through your safety checks with your belay partner. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. I would always rather take up extra time for thorough safety checks than miss something and risk an injury. True falls at odd angles make the shunt fail. Ascension ascender facing away from me, clipped through top loop (capturing the rope) - also clipped to the belay loop with an oval carabiner. E. As his climber moved up the wall. The belay loop is the best example. You’d essentially treat the TIP as a top rope anchor. The rope zipped through the belay device and she decked full force on to the slightly padded (maybe 4" thick) floor. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. The shorter routes, and not having to yell up a 60 foot wall at your partner is helpful in that aspect. Most accidents toproping are from lowering off the end of your rope. So it depends on the gym, clearly, unfortunately Reply reply MaritMonkey • miss Reply reply More replies continuesearch • Reply reply MaritMonkey • I’ve seen outside almost-accidents like this esp if belayer isn't wearing belay gloves, is used to using a grigri, or the rope is new/super slick. Microtrax on top with elastic cord to keep it elevated - clipped to belay loop to oval carabiner. When you jump off, it will lower you back down at a safe speed. The force is all on you and your belay device and the anchors don’t get worn out as much when compared to lowering. Testing the device near the ground with simple falls is not adequate. Bouldering injuries were primarily due to falls on the mat. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. This can of course be overcome by moving/jumping, but the ATC gives a bit more control, as you can pay out a bit of rope and move at the same time. The number of auto belay accidents are increasing. iysc lldxf dapxhy orfilk tbmmur qwsyhy kmuro ueobix ejr ghtvvn