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Best locking carabiner for grigri reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.
Best locking carabiner for grigri reddit. Instead put that money towards a hitch climber (two auto locking carabiners, eye to eye, three ring pulley) and then buy a pinto pulley, eye to eye and auto locking carabiner for your lanyard. Round stock will be better for the master point to run the rope through because of their lower friction. You can use a locker draw to keep the lower one out of the way. Locking (I. , double action) carabiners are the standard for belay devices and most other critical single point connections. 96K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Looks like her grandparents took her climbing. My partners laugh at me but I thrust my hips in their direction and haul on the rope to make the grigri lock. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. Asking if anyone has any recommendations for a carabiner for my keychain - specifically, one that's durable and can easily be attached/unattached (I have a rape whistle and some other important goodies on my keychain so I'd need to unclip it quickly, but I'd still like to hook my keychain to my bag or anything else as necessary). Love their pure sliders too, for my PAS and a bomber quickdraw atm. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight As far as lockers go, get a pair of “round-stock” and a pair of “I-beam” locking carabiners. Regular oval 3-way locking carabiners tend to be uncomfortable for my hand size, end with a lot of annoying fiddling when using lanyards up in the tree etc. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. 21 hours ago · Discover our picks for best climbing carabiners, with options for a range of uses. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. Drill a small hole on the end opposite the clip-in hole and tie a short loop of cord through it. I-beam carabiners are good for other random uses - I like the BD hotforge lockers and Metolius round stock lockers. Slight detail (and correct me if I’m wrong) but the carabiner gate should be facing left ie away from the right hand moving up and down. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. I make one with a 180cm Jul 24, 2025 · When you’re climbing with ropes, whether sport, trad, or toprope, you need carabiners for so many different reasons. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. For climbers looking for a locker to use on gym climbs, top-roping days, or rappelling, the Rocklock is a good choice that won't break the bank. Single action means no lock (just push). The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. We break down key features, designs, and what to consider before buying. ) Do you guys have any ideas on how to personalize climbing equipment? Some of my friends have gotten some of their stuff stolen, so I thought the more blatant it is that it's mine the less likely it will be stolen. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. The Giga Jul doesn't lock when you are using brand new or treated ropes and it only locks when using very specific types of carabiners. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. When used together with the Mammut Bionic Carabiner the device doesn't lock. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes Unlocked her without a hand on the brake, fell about 10-15 feet and came to a dead stop. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • What brand in particular. And one that isn’t the size of my face. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned Clipping the grigri carabiner to another locking carabiner usually allows it to sit flat on flat surfaces. I was surprised at how much smoother my rappels and guide-mode belays got when I stopped using my I-beam carabiners and started using a round stock carabiner. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). It doesn’t matter what shape biner you use for an anchor, as long as it locks in some way. The most ironic part is, I now have a keeper cord for my GriGri. 9mm. Attach the grigri to your harness backwards and clip the loop of cord to a chest Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. My favorite carabiner for a lanyard is the twist lock Petzl Sm’D. E. Harness has to be a full body harness as body belts are banned as of 1998. I can't find a spec on the strength of the setup on the right 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). Best lanyard is Petzl Connect Adjust, then there’s the Metolius PAS. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. The brake handle has also been updated with an anti-panic locking system. More info on carabiner stock shape here and here. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. Our team of climbing experts Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. We’ll do our best, though, to point you in the right direction. Shoes are hanging off the outside of the bag which allows them to air dry between sessions and limits the funk. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. I've used clove hitches, A Rock Exotica Solo-Aid, and a Silent Partner, and honestly prefer the modified grigri. Non-locking carabiners Do you have any in your kit and if so, what make and model and how/what do you use them for? The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). You made an excellent choice! Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs I prefer 2 progress capture devices on one strand. Weight is a factor. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. You’ll find a million answers on what works best, but do whatever feels comfortable. Also you failed to mention that you can double rope rap on a mega jul. Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. The gate also features a curved extension bar off the The downside of screwgate carabiners: The gate can sometimes accidentally open when rubbing against a rope or rock. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. But the point is that it does a damn good job at locking up. com BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. It works OK. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user. Obviously there are lots of factors that were unique to my experience, rope, locking carabiner geometry, etc. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. Does anyone have recommendations for carabiners, these are the ones that I am looking at right now. Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. It saves time and is safer imo. Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Its out of the ordinary and over the top but makes it super obvious to both of us that the thing is threaded properly. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Do you usually use your left hand for the brake rope? I have had the same set up (but with bulletproof biner) for maybe two years now. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. The damn GriGri is heavy enough as it is so i looked for a very lightweight locking beaner to go with it. All things climbing carabiners demystified! May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Edit: read your comment below, so it seems I went with the better carabiner option, 1/20-1/40 seems a lot Reply reply mariafallon34 •. The Plus also gives you a smoother feel so you don’t have to thumb the brake to let out slack, letting you belay the same way you would with a tubular device. They don’t have to be auto locking, though it’s nice in many scenarios. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. e. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. With the G+ that can be mitigated. The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Here in the Alps, you can usually find them at the bottom of crevasses, thrown there by mountain guides which took them off their clients for safety reasons. The gate of the biner is always facing left, and my right hand is my brake rope hand, never had that happened to me. It is durable, affordable, and with a retail price, presents fantastic value. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. Here are our in-depth reviews! (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. There's another picture of her doing a single rope rappell off of the same grigri Jan 8, 2019 · The Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate is BD's largest locking carabiner, designed with belaying and rappelling in mind. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The grigri is over hyped. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. 560 votes, 31 comments. If you are getting high off the ground or far from the Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. Also, check out the Quad anchor, which seems to be the new standard. Carabiners for GRIGRI This is not an extensive list of every carabiner that works well for a GRIGRI, but does show each of the various styles that people use to limit the chance of cross-loading a carabiner. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question. At no point did he say the word quickdraw. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. What locking carabiners Is everyone using. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. The home of Climbing on reddit. Assisted-locking belay device showdown. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? See full list on climbernews. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. The smart is my favourite belay device. You can round it out with BD stoppers, helmet, rope, what have you. The best-selling Grigri, now optimized for ropes larger than 8. Looking for both big ones for HMS belays, master points etc and a few smaller ones. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 locking carabiner : edelrid bulletproof are nice for first draw and top rope. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. More important considerations are size and shape, radius of the basket, how it handles rope, all kinds Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If you have Petzl Nomics, Quarks, Lynxs, Lasers, maybe you can buy all Petzl carabiners, but I don't think Petzl makes rock Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Feb 2, 2024 · Picking a single best non-locking carabiner is a lot like picking the prettiest flower: everyone you ask will have a different answer. Old heads will say use a regular sling or Clove hitch with the rope. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. He has a different locking biner for ATC belays, because in that case, the rope DOES contact the carabiner. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Personalizing Climbing Equipment (GriGri, Carabiners etc. Step 3: The leader takes the brake strand from the GriGri, and places this rope in a second locking carabiner creating a second masterpoint on the anchor. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. All these extra tests and discarding of product adds mainhours and additional expense hence the higher cost. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. Maybe to start lock the carabiner… I’d ditch the grigri, hand ascender and foot loop. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you determine the best carabiner for your needs May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. In a very rare sequence of events you can undo a screw/locking carabiner and it’s less safe. As usual u/bearbreeder has some great advice below to make sure that you are aware of how best to use an ATC/other belay device before using a grigri as grigris are assisted belay devices, not auto-locking ones. Aug 15, 2019 · The Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron is a belay specific locker that uses magnetic technology in the gate to create an auto-locking system that is quite a bit different than most standard twist locks. . Petzl attach as master point in anchors, Simond as cheap D screwgates. Cut the handle short to prevent the rope from catching under it and preventing cam lock. The twist and open type or two-way lock is to be handled as an non-locker. I use an attache 3D with my GriGri2. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. It even saved me from a sketchy rappel in the dark without a rap device at EPC shortly after I installed it. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Best locking carabiners for small hands? Hi everyone, pretty new to climbing and am looking for suggestions on small lockable carabiners. Mar 4, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. A Keylock Nose reduces the chances of rope snagging considerably Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In the bag are harnesses for me and my husband, belay device, carabiner, chalk bags, and water bottle with extra carabiner. * IMO, it's worth the extra weight (although you'd be perfectly safe using an I-beam carabiner for these purposes). Most carabiners for example are x rayed to check for any micro fractures, if any are present the carabeiner is discarded. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. He is talking about the locking biner he uses to belay with, and how the grigri is chewing his up (because in the case of a grigri, the rope doesn't contact the locking biner). Safety wise I really doubt it matters, but if you like to stick with a brand for whatever reason, and you have BD Camalots, I think it's cute to pair them with matched color Black Diamond carabiners. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. From belaying to rappelling, clipping bolts to racking trad gear, every climber’s kit includes a variety of carabiners, and different ones are better for different applications. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. This article recommends some of them. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. And yes we are scared of falling. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. What's my best setup for this purpose? Most I get is that the carabiners have to be rated at least 16kn right? but it has to have a osha cert on it? or could it be a REI carabiner. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. In order to open the gate, you must squeeze two lever arms, one on each side of the gate, which releases the magnetic grip with the nose. Its locking gate features a twist-lock mechanism to reduce accidental openings. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. 1. The ones I have are twist-lock rated 24 KN closed. I posted a kind message simply explaining that in the interest of safety, it's usually best practice to use a locking biner to attach a belay device to your harness. Grigri. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Here are our in-depth reviews. If anyone uses an auto-locking device other than the gri-gri, can you talk about your experience with it and its pros and cons? Are there devices that have a guide mode for multi-pitching that also lock off well on lead? I am looking to add a few locking biners to my gear, mostly for critical pieces, anchor building etc. I think I'd be nice to have auto-locking but have thus far only used screw-gate biners. Thanks in anticipation! This is a double action locker (twist and push). Hard to use with one hand. I think it lets you climb more continuously. Black Diamond Gridlock The Gridlock family of carabiners are specifically designed for belay devices. Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. twzionqrvizxxzvnvyhbeiazdslezepwhwhbajrjaslpup